Caring for roses in spring
In the spring, the gardener’s calendar is so much trouble! Some works are associated with the garden and orchard, others with ornamental plants. Already in early spring, garden princesses, roses, also remind of themselves. Indeed, in order for these beauties to please with lush flowering and healthy foliage, it is necessary not only to remove their shelter from them in a timely manner. Roses in the spring will need the right pruning, and the necessary nutrition, and protection from diseases and pests. How to care for roses in the spring, we will tell in the article.
- Riding Cover
- Pruning roses in spring
- Spring feeding
- Mulching under bushes in spring
- Repair and installation of supports
- Caring for old, feral and grafted roses
- Monitoring for problem prevention
- Preparing for planting new roses
- Spring planting roses
Complex or simple shelters from roses need to be removed gradually, step by step, just as they were created. As soon as the sun warms up, the snow will melt, not earlier than in the first ten days of April, begin to air the bushes, open the shelters from the north for a day. Keep track of the weather, rose buds, look under the shelter: in many ways, the specific timing is determined by the weather and temperature in each individual year. Carefully protect roses from overheating, overheating under the increasingly active spring sun.
A few days later, after the temperature rises above -5 ° C, remove the first "layer" of the shelter - non-woven material. After another 2-3 days, when the temperature rises to 0 ° C, remove the spruce branches or the remaining covering material, and after a few days - dry foliage. Let the bushes adjust and only then remove the spud.
From the root neck, the vaccination site, the protection is removed last. Do not rush to spring cleaning of the roses and other procedures either: start pruning and dressing only 3-7 days after the final removal of the shelters, but watch out for the kidneys: if they are swollen, it is better to speed up the process. The more “stages” you manage to break down the process of unrolling roses, the more carefully adaptation will be, the better.
Pruning roses in spring
The spring program for direct care of garden queens starts with a sanitary haircut and thinning pruning. For these luxurious shrubs, you must strictly adhere to the deadlines: pruning can only be done until the buds begin to bloom on the roses. In order not to be late, it is better to plan the pruning immediately after the winter shelter is removed and spend it during the week.
Roses that have successfully hibernated should be carefully examined, paying particular attention to bushes planted only last fall. All frost-bitten, dry, damaged, diseased shoots should be cut to healthy tissues, just below the place of frostbite or damage.
The wild growth that appears below the place of budding (inoculation) is completely removed in order to prevent wild roses from running in time. It is better to immediately remove the oldest branches, from 4-5 years old, as well as thin shoots growing inside the bush. Treat wounds, large sections immediately with a garden var or a special tool.
If sanitary cleaning is required for any roses, then pruning and shaping directly depend on the species, group to which a particular bush belongs. Floribunda and hybrid tea roses are pruned in the spring, shortening all shoots by a third.
Shrub and flowerbed roses do not form single blooms in spring, and for multiply blooming shoots are shortened by one third of their length. Ground-covering roses are rarely pruned; every 4-5 years, rejuvenating bushes by cutting to stumps of 20-30 cm. Repairing roses need only thinning, their skeletal shoots are pruned once every 3-4 years.
Climbing roses are pruned annually, leaving 3-5 buds on the side branches and necessarily removing shoots older than 5 years, thus constantly rejuvenating the rose. Stamp roses form on certain contours.
When conducting spring pruning, one should strictly monitor the cleanliness and sharpness of the tools, treat them with disinfectants for each bush. Slices are carried out only above a well-developed kidney (0.5 cm) and only at an angle, obliquely.
If the roses are frozen and seem dead, do not rush to dig out and throw away the bushes. Perhaps a few buds have survived on the rose, and with the advent of spring, the bush will come to life, release new shoots. Only after making sure that the root system is dead, throw the rose from the site.
The first top dressing for roses in a year is best done immediately after sanitary pruning. For the early spring fertilizer, timing is also important, or rather, the stage of development of the shrub: the mixture is applied after it swells, but before the buds open.
Roses respond well to complex fertilizers, and to special mixtures for roses, and to nitrogen fertilizing (for example, ammonium nitrate). Use the standard full dose of fertilizer recommended by the manufacturer. Every 2-3 years, it is advisable to add organic fertilizer to the mineral dressing - manure or compost, planting it in the soil or using it as mulch.
According to classical agricultural technology for this shrub, fertilizers are applied to the soil around the new shoots, interfering with them in the soil. But today, two application strategies are used: dissolving in water for irrigation (applying in liquid form) or embedding in the soil.
The latter method is less effective, except in rainy and warm seasons. Yes, and more time consuming. So that top dressing introduced into the soil does not lead to burns, before the procedure it is necessary to water the soil abundantly for several hours. Immediately after top dressing, the soil is shed again, conducting a deep, high-quality watering.
Mulching under bushes in spring
Mulching is the only way to simplify rose care and save yourself from many problems. They complete the procedure for the first fertilizer application. It is necessary for more effective conservation of moisture in the soil, prevention of compaction, violation of water and air permeability, weed control. Thanks to mulching, you can forget about weeding and loosening, more efficiently distribute your time.
For roses, mulch from crushed bark or ripe compost is perfect. The soil after watering is loosened, fluffed, and then covered with a middle layer of mulch (5-7 cm).
Repair and installation of supports
After the roses are trimmed, the basic procedures are completed, it is worth taking care of installing new supports and inspecting the old foundations for climbing roses. Pay attention to wooden structures that are best treated with protective compounds. As the bushes grow, they need to be tied up, raising shoots above the ground.
Stamp roses, after they are set upright again, also need to be tied to the stakes immediately.
Caring for old, feral and grafted roses
All roses that had budding last summer need to trim the stocks (if signs of new shoots are visible). It is worthwhile to pay attention to feral roses as early as possible: a renewing, cardinal pruning will help save the bushes. All branches are pruned to a height of 35-40 cm. And on old roses, which give poor growth, it is better to stretch the pruning process for several years, affecting only part of the old shoots.
Monitoring for problem prevention
Since mid-spring, and especially in May, it is worth doing inspections of rose bushes on the site as often as you can. Aphids are especially active at this time. But for prevention, the timely start of the fight against fungal diseases, examinations of young foliage are critical.
To prevent many problems, it is better to resort to the method of preventive spraying, especially for varieties that are not particularly resistant to powdery mildew.
Mandatory preventive spring spraying is also considered for roses that were sick in past years. Sprinkle young foliage on roses with an insecticide or fungicide (special preparations for protecting roses or simple Bordeaux liquid, iron sulfate are perfect), protecting plants from possible infection. You can use biological products - infusions of tansy, nettle, etc.
Some gardeners prefer to treat pests and diseases as soon as possible, immediately after removing the shelter and before the buds open. But spraying can be done at a later date.
Preparing for planting new roses
If you plan to plant new roses in the spring, do not delay the preparation of the soil for planting: the sooner you dig the soil and fertilize it, the better. Planting time will come only in the middle and late spring, but the work done on time will simplify the busiest months of the year.
For roses, they use the standard technique: they dig the soil twice deep, scattering organic and mineral fertilizers between the procedures between the ridges. Manure and compost are perfect for this shrub, and either self-prepared mixture, or nitrofosk, or special fertilizers for roses are used as a full mineral fertilizer.
Spring planting roses
For regions with severe winters, it is spring that is considered the optimal time for planting garden princesses, which allows achieving good rooting and ripening before the onset of cold weather. Spring planting of roses is carried out for seedlings with an open root system as soon as possible, as soon as the soil warms up (up to + 10 ° C), and in containers - almost at any time.
Before planting, seedlings must be prepared. Roses in containers are watered abundantly, with an open rhizome - soaked in water to saturate the tissues with water. After soaking, the roots are trimmed, removing a third of the length (for damaged roots, pruning is done to healthy tissues). Shoots also need to be shortened: on average, leave 5-6 buds on strong shoots, 2-3 on medium shoots, completely remove damaged or dry twigs. But it is better to take into account the type, class of roses.
Polyanthus and hybrid tea roses are cut so that 2-3 buds remain on the shoots. At floribund, 3-4 buds are left, flower beds are shortened by one third, and ground roses are not cut at all.
Roses are planted in spacious, deep landing pits, gently straightening the rhizome or carefully preserving the earthen lump in container roses. When planting, the bush grafting site is buried 5-7 cm below the soil line. They fill the rose with earth, gently tamping the soil, trying to avoid voids and taking into account shrinkage. Immediately after the procedure, roses are abundantly watered, and the soil is mulched. If the planting is carried out early, to protect from night frosts, the bushes are spudding, removing the shelter only after the shoots start to grow.
Do you have many roses growing in your garden? How do you care for them? Share secrets in the comments on the article or on our Forum.